Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock State Park is world-renowned for rock climbing — thousands of routes, from the pioneering bolted sport climbs that launched American sport climbing to traditional and multi-pitch climbs on the tuff and basalt, drawing climbers from around the globe (the famous Monkey Face spire among the prizes). Beyond climbing, the park offers spectacular hiking (the Misery Ridge Trail over the rim, the river trails), mountain biking, sightseeing and photography of the cliffs and the Crooked River, wildlife watching, and camping at the bivouac area. Climbing and hiking the dramatic cliffs are the signature draws. The combination of world-class climbing, the towering high-desert cliffs and the river makes Smith Rock a premier destination.

Spring and fall are ideal, with comfortable temperatures for climbing and hiking the exposed high-desert rock, while summer is hot (climb and hike in the cooler hours) and winter cool, with the rock and the Cascade peaks beyond often beautiful in clear, crisp air. The high desert is sunny and dry much of the year. Sunrise and sunset set the cliffs glowing, the best times for photography. Spring and fall offer the best weather for climbing and hiking; come early to the popular park (which fills), carry plenty of water for the dry high desert, and savor the dramatic cliffs and river.

Smith Rock’s dramatic cliffs in the central Oregon high desert long drew climbers, but in the 1980s it became the birthplace of American sport climbing, when pioneering climbers like Alan Watts established the bolted, gymnastically difficult routes that launched a new style and era of climbing in the United States — making Smith Rock a hallowed and world-famous destination in the climbing world. The land was protected as an Oregon state park, preserving the cliffs, the river and the dramatic landscape. Smith Rock preserves both the world-class climbing and the spectacular high-desert scenery, a treasured icon of central Oregon.

Smith Rock’s dramatic cliffs and spires are made largely of welded volcanic tuff — rock formed from the ash and debris of ancient volcanic eruptions that filled a basin and welded into rock — along with later basalt lava flows, the combination giving the cliffs their colorful, layered character. The Crooked River, winding through in its horseshoe bend, has carved the rock, and weathering has sculpted the pinnacles and formations like Monkey Face. The volcanic tuff and basalt, the river’s carving and the weathering created the towering, colorful cliffs and spires that make Smith Rock spectacular and beloved by climbers.

The cliffs, river and high-desert country of Smith Rock State Park host mule deer, river otters along the Crooked River, beavers, and a rich community of birds, most notably the golden eagles and prairie falcons that nest on the cliffs (climbing routes near nests are closed seasonally to protect them), along with raptors, swifts, songbirds and waterbirds, while the river supports trout and the sagebrush country its wildlife. The cliffs and the river corridor support varied high-desert wildlife. The park is a fine place for wildlife watching and birding, with the cliff-nesting golden eagles and falcons among the highlights of this dramatic landscape.

Smith Rock State Park protects a high-desert ecosystem in central Oregon, where the volcanic cliffs, the winding Crooked River and its riparian corridor, and the surrounding sagebrush-steppe support life adapted to the dry, sunny high desert, including cliff-nesting raptors, riverside cottonwoods and willows, and sagebrush-country plants and animals. The river oasis amid the dry country and the cliffs create varied habitat. Protecting the river’s water quality, the cliffs (and their nesting raptors), and the surrounding sagebrush-steppe sustains both the ecology and the spectacular scenery of this treasured high-desert park.

Smith Rock State Park, the birthplace of American sport climbing and a stunning landscape of high-desert cliffs above the Crooked River, holds a treasured and world-famous place among the natural and climbing icons of Oregon. Hallowed in the climbing world for the pioneering routes that launched a new era of the sport, and beloved by hikers and sightseers for its breathtaking scenery, Smith Rock embodies both the adventurous spirit of climbing and the dramatic beauty of the central Oregon high desert. The park is a cherished icon of Oregon, a global climbing destination and a spectacular scenic landmark.

Smith Rock State Park is in central Oregon near the towns of Terrebonne and Redmond, off US-97, about 25 minutes north of Bend and a few hours southeast of Portland. A day-use parking fee applies. The park offers trailheads and the climbing access, the Misery Ridge and river trails, overlooks, a walk-in bivouac campground (popular with climbers), and visitor facilities. The high-desert trails are exposed; the descent to the river and the climbs are strenuous. The park is very popular and fills on nice days. Check Oregon State Parks for parking, conditions and access before visiting.

Oregon State Parks protects the cliffs, the Crooked River, the riparian corridor, the sagebrush-steppe and the wildlife of Smith Rock State Park. Visitors help by staying on the designated trails (the steep, dry slopes are fragile and erode easily), climbing responsibly and respecting the seasonal raptor-nesting closures (climbing routes near golden eagle and falcon nests are closed to protect them), protecting the river’s water quality, packing out everything, respecting wildlife, and following the rules. Protecting the cliffs (and their nesting raptors), the river and the sagebrush-steppe sustains both the ecology and the spectacular scenery of this treasured and world-famous park.

Smith Rock’s cliffs and trails are rugged and exposed — rock climbing is serious and for those with proper skills, gear and experience (or guides), and the hiking trails (like Misery Ridge) are steep with drop-offs, so stay on trails, keep back from cliff edges, watch footing on the loose, sometimes crumbly rock, and supervise children closely. The high desert is hot and dry; carry plenty of water (more than you think), wear sun protection, and hike in the cooler hours in summer. Watch for rattlesnakes in the sagebrush and rocks. Respect the climbing hazards, the drop-offs, the heat and the wildlife.

A day-use parking fee applies. Stay on designated trails; protect the fragile slopes. Climb responsibly and respect seasonal raptor-nesting closures (routes near nests are closed to protect golden eagles and falcons). Camp only in the designated walk-in bivouac area. Protect the river; pack out all trash. Pets must be leashed. Drones may be restricted. Do not disturb wildlife. Carry water for the dry high desert. Check Oregon State Parks for parking, the raptor closures and current rules before visiting this popular park.

The towns of Terrebonne, Redmond and Bend (a hub for outdoor recreation, breweries and the high desert) lie near the park, with the Crooked River, the high-desert country of central Oregon, the Cascade peaks (the Three Sisters, Mount Bachelor) to the west, and the Deschutes River in the region. The central Oregon high desert and the Cascades define the region. Smith Rock anchors a world-famous climbing and scenic region of central Oregon, a centerpiece of a high-desert and climbing adventure, easily reached from the outdoor hub of Bend.

Hike the strenuous Misery Ridge Trail over the rim for breathtaking views of the cliffs, the Crooked River’s horseshoe bend, the famous Monkey Face spire and the Cascade peaks beyond — or walk the gentler river trails. Climbers will find world-class routes (the birthplace of American sport climbing), respecting the seasonal raptor-nesting closures. Come in spring or fall for the best weather (and early, as the park fills), carry plenty of water for the dry high desert, watch for rattlesnakes, keep back from the cliff edges, and base in nearby Bend.