Smugglers' Notch

Smugglers’ Notch is one of the most dramatic mountain passes in the eastern United States — a narrow, twisting gap squeezing between the towering cliffs of Mount Mansfield (Vermont’s highest peak) and Spruce Peak in the northern Green Mountains. The steep, winding road threads past sheer rock walls hundreds of feet high and house-sized boulders that have tumbled into the notch, a wild and scenic passage near Stowe.

The notch gets its name from the smuggling that took place here — of goods during Jefferson’s embargo and the War of 1812, and later of liquor during Prohibition and refugees to Canada. Cool even in summer, lined with rare plants on its cold cliffs, and a haven for hiking and rock climbing, the notch road is so tight and steep it closes to vehicles every winter. A wild mountain gateway, Smugglers’ Notch is a treasured natural icon of Vermont.

Smugglers’ Notch offers a spectacular (if white-knuckle) scenic drive through the narrow pass in the warmer months, hiking on trails that climb to Mount Mansfield and Sterling Pond and explore the boulders and cliffs of the notch, rock climbing and (in winter) ice climbing on the cliffs, and access to the Stowe and Smugglers’ Notch ski areas on either side. The notch is also a gateway to the Long Trail. Driving or walking through the dramatic notch, hiking to the high country and climbing the cliffs are the signature draws. The combination of a wild, narrow pass, towering cliffs and rich lore makes it unforgettable.

Late spring through fall is when the notch road is open (it closes to vehicles in winter due to the steep, narrow, snowy conditions), with summer bringing cool relief and lush green, and fall bringing spectacular foliage framing the cliffs (a popular, crowded time). The notch is cool and shaded even in summer. In winter, the closed road becomes a route for skiers, snowshoers and ice climbers. Summer and fall (for the foliage) are the highlights for the drive and hikes — come when the road is open, drive slowly and carefully, and explore the trails and boulders.

The Green Mountains are the homeland of the Abenaki people. Smugglers’ Notch earned its name as a route for illicit trade — smuggling goods to and from Canada during the Embargo Act and the War of 1812 (when trade with Britain/Canada was banned), and later liquor during Prohibition, as well as a path for fugitives and refugees heading to Canada. The dramatic pass became a state park and scenic byway. Smugglers’ Notch preserves this wild mountain passage, its cliffs and its colorful smuggling history, a treasured icon of Vermont.

Smugglers’ Notch is a deep, narrow pass carved between Mount Mansfield and Spruce Peak, where Ice Age glaciers and frost shattering steepened the gap and broke huge boulders from the towering cliffs (of ancient Green Mountain schist), which tumbled into the notch, narrowing the passage. The cold, shaded cliffs hold ice late into the year and harbor rare alpine and arctic plants. The ancient rock, the glacial and frost carving, and the fallen boulders created this dramatic, narrow notch.

The forests and cliffs of Smugglers’ Notch host black bears, moose, deer, and a birdlife including peregrine falcons that nest on the cliffs (climbing routes close to protect them), boreal birds in the high spruce-fir, and forest songbirds, while the cool, shaded cliffs shelter rare plants. The range from forest to high cliffs supports varied wildlife. The notch offers wildlife watching, with the cliff-nesting peregrine falcons and the high-country birds among the highlights, amid the dramatic rock scenery.

Smugglers’ Notch shelters a remarkable cold-cliff ecosystem — the shaded, north-facing cliffs and the cool air that pools in the notch create a microclimate where rare arctic and alpine plants survive at low elevation, a special botanical treasure — within the spruce-fir and northern-hardwood forest of the Green Mountains. The cold-cliff plants and the notch microclimate are rare and fragile. Protecting the cliffs, the rare plants, the cliff-nesting falcons and the surrounding forest sustains both the ecology and the wild beauty of Smugglers’ Notch.

Smugglers’ Notch holds a treasured place among the icons of Vermont — a dramatic, narrow mountain pass of towering cliffs and giant boulders between Mount Mansfield and Spruce Peak, steeped in colorful smuggling lore and beloved for its scenic drive, hiking and climbing near Stowe. Its wild rock scenery and history embody the rugged beauty of the Green Mountains. Smugglers’ Notch is a cherished natural and historic icon of Vermont.

Smugglers’ Notch is in the northern Green Mountains between Stowe and Jeffersonville, carried by State Route 108 through Smugglers’ Notch State Park. The notch road is open seasonally (closed to vehicles in winter) and is very narrow and steep with tight turns — no large vehicles, trailers or buses are allowed. There may be a day-use/parking fee at trailheads. The park has a campground, trails and the dramatic notch. The Stowe and Smugglers’ Notch resorts flank it. Check Vermont State Parks and the road status for the seasonal opening, vehicle restrictions and conditions before going.

Vermont State Parks protects Smugglers’ Notch, its cliffs and rare plants. Visitors help by staying on trails to protect the fragile cold-cliff plants and the forest, respecting climbing-route closures for nesting peregrine falcons, not disturbing the rare plants or wildlife, parking only in designated areas (the notch is tight), packing out everything, and following all rules. The rare cold-cliff plants and the cliff-nesting falcons are sensitive. Protecting the cliffs, the rare plants and the wildlife sustains both the ecology and the wild beauty of the notch.

The notch road is extremely narrow, steep and winding, with tight hairpin turns squeezing between cliffs and boulders — drive slowly and carefully, and note that large vehicles, trailers and buses are prohibited (and get stuck). Watch for pedestrians, cyclists and falling rock. The cliffs are dangerous (climbing is for the experienced and equipped). The notch is cool; bring a layer. In winter the road is closed (skiers/snowshoers use it). Respect the narrow road and vehicle restrictions, the falling-rock and cliff hazards, and the seasonal closure.

The notch road (Route 108) is open seasonally and closed to vehicles in winter; large vehicles, trailers and buses are prohibited year-round (strictly enforced). Stay on trails; respect peregrine-falcon climbing closures and do not disturb rare plants. A day-use/parking fee may apply at trailheads; camp only in the state-park campground. Pets must be leashed. Drones are restricted. Pack out all trash. Check Vermont State Parks and the road status for the seasonal opening, vehicle restrictions and rules before going.

The resort town of Stowe and Mount Mansfield to the south, the town of Jeffersonville and the Smugglers’ Notch resort to the north, the Green Mountains and the Long Trail, and the Lamoille Valley lie near the notch. The Green Mountains and Stowe define the region. Smugglers’ Notch is a dramatic mountain gateway near Stowe, a centerpiece of a Vermont adventure, easily combined with Stowe, Mount Mansfield, the Long Trail and the Jeffersonville area.

Drive the spectacular notch road slowly and carefully when it’s open (late spring to fall) — but only in a small vehicle (no trailers, RVs or buses, which get stuck on the tight turns) — and stop to walk among the towering cliffs and giant boulders. Hike from the notch to Sterling Pond or up toward Mount Mansfield for high-country views. Come in fall for foliage framing the cliffs (it’s crowded), bring a layer (the notch is cool), respect falcon-nesting closures, and combine your visit with Stowe and Mount Mansfield.