Cape Henlopen State Park

Cape Henlopen State Park, at the northern tip of the Delaware Seashore at the mouth of Delaware Bay, is the finest state park in Delaware — a 5,193-acre barrier-spit park protecting a spectacular sweep of Atlantic beach, the historic Great Dune (the tallest natural point in Delaware at 80 feet), World War II fortifications and fire-control towers, coastal forest, and the meeting point of Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean.

The park is one of the premier birding sites on the Delmarva Peninsula — a critical migratory bird corridor where shorebirds, raptors, seabirds and songbirds concentrate at the Delaware Bay mouth. The fisherman’s pier, the bayshore beach (excellent for horseshoe-crab watching in May), and the Atlantic surf beach provide outstanding recreation. Cape Henlopen is a treasured natural icon of Delaware.

Cape Henlopen State Park offers swimming at the Atlantic ocean beach (lifeguarded in season) and the calmer Delaware Bay beach, birding (a critical Delaware Bay migration hotspot — the bay beach is famous for its May horseshoe-crab spawning, which concentrates tens of thousands of migratory shorebirds; the point is an excellent fall hawk watch; and the coastal forest attracts warbler fallouts in spring), fishing from the fishing pier and surf (striped bass, bluefish and weakfish), hiking and biking the multi-use trail system (including the trail through the coastal forest and dune habitat), visiting the WWII fire-control towers (open for climbing in season — panoramic bay and ocean views from 75 feet), camping at the campground, and wildlife watching. The horseshoe-crab and shorebird spectacle in May and the WWII towers are the signature draws.

Late May (around the full moon) is the most spectacular time — the horseshoe-crab spawning on the Delaware Bay beaches concentrates thousands of red knots, ruddy turnstones, sanderlings and other shorebirds in a natural spectacle of global significance (the Delaware Bay horseshoe-crab and shorebird event is one of the great wildlife spectacles in North America). Fall (September through November) is excellent for hawk migration (sharp-shinned hawks, merlins, peregrine falcons) at the point. Summer is the beach season. Spring for the horseshoe crabs, fall for the hawks, and summer for the beach are the highlights.

Cape Henlopen has been a landmark of the Delaware Bay entrance since European exploration — the first English settlement attempt in Delaware was near the cape in the early 17th century, and the cape served as a navigational landmark for Delaware Bay traffic for centuries. During World War II, Fort Miles was established at Cape Henlopen to defend the Delaware Bay against enemy submarines; the gun batteries, bunkers and fire-control towers from Fort Miles are preserved in the park and are one of the finest intact WWII coastal-defense sites in the East. Cape Henlopen State Park was established in 1964, preserving the cape from planned residential development.

Cape Henlopen is a barrier spit — a linear accumulation of sand built by longshore drift northward from the Delaware Seashore barrier island system, forming the great arc of sand that defines the Delaware Bay entrance. The Great Dune (80 feet tall) is a parabolic dune formed by wind moving sand from the beach inland. The cape has grown significantly northward over historical time. The coastal forest (maritime holly, bayberry, black cherry) occupies the older, more stable inland portions of the spit. The barrier-spit formation, the longshore drift and the maritime dune-building created the cape landscape.

Cape Henlopen is one of the most important wildlife sites on the East Coast — the late-May horseshoe-crab spawning on the bay beaches concentrates tens of thousands of migratory shorebirds (red knots, ruddy turnstones, sanderlings, semipalmated sandpipers) in a global-significance wildlife event; the red knot in particular depends on the Delaware Bay crab-egg feast to fuel its epic migration from Tierra del Fuego to the Arctic. The point is a premier fall hawk watch (peregrine falcons, merlins, sharp-shinned and Cooper’s hawks in October). Seabirds (gannets, scoters, loons) concentrate offshore in fall and winter.

Cape Henlopen State Park protects a critical piece of the Delaware Bay shorebird stopover — one of the most ecologically significant migration events in the Western Hemisphere. The horseshoe-crab eggs provide the essential caloric fuel for the northbound shorebirds; the crab population and the shorebird populations are tightly linked. Overharvesting of horseshoe crabs (for bait and biomedical use) in the 1990s and 2000s drove a dramatic decline in red knot numbers; management restrictions have been implemented. Protecting the horseshoe-crab breeding habitat, the bay beach access for shorebirds, and the coastal forest sustains this globally significant ecological event.

Cape Henlopen holds a treasured place among the natural and historical icons of Delaware — the state’s finest state park, a globally significant shorebird migration site, a preserved WWII coastal defense landmark, and the meeting point of Delaware Bay and the Atlantic. Its May shorebird spectacle (one of the great wildlife events in North America), its WWII towers and its excellent beach make it exceptional. Cape Henlopen is a cherished natural and cultural icon of Delaware.

Cape Henlopen State Park is in Lewes, Delaware, at the northeastern tip of the Delaware Seashore. Access is via Cape Henlopen Drive from the town of Lewes. A Delaware state park vehicle fee applies (covered by Delaware annual passes). The park is about 1 mile from the Lewes terminal of the Cape May-Lewes Ferry (from Cape May, NJ across Delaware Bay). Lewes has full services and is an excellent small city. Check DE State Parks for current beach conditions, campground reservations and WWII tower tour schedules before visiting.

Delaware State Parks manages Cape Henlopen. The horseshoe-crab nesting beaches are the most critical conservation feature — during the May spawning (especially around the full moon nights in May), volunteers count crabs and shorebirds; visitors help by observing the spawning from the designated beach areas (do not walk on the crab spawning beaches during peak events; only approach the shoreline in permitted areas), not disturbing the shorebird concentrations, following all park rules, and supporting the crab protection regulations. The red knot’s recovery depends on the protection of these beaches.

The Atlantic beach has lifeguards in season; respect the lifeguard zones and any rip current advisories. The WWII fire-control towers are open for climbing (steep spiral stairs to 75 feet) in season — supervise children carefully and assess fitness before climbing. The bay beach during horseshoe-crab season (May) is best visited with a birding guide or on a ranger-led tour to understand the spectacle; avoid walking on the crab nesting areas (they are vulnerable). Greenhead flies are a nuisance on the bay beach in July; carry repellent. Respect the rip currents, the tower stairs and the horseshoe-crab nesting areas.

Delaware state park vehicle fee required. Campground requires advance reservation. WWII tower tours are seasonal (check DE State Parks for schedule and any fees). No walking on horseshoe-crab nesting beaches during peak spawning season (designated viewing areas are provided). Pets must be leashed; not permitted on ocean beach in season. Fishing from the pier and surf follows Delaware fishing regulations. Pack out all trash. Check DE State Parks for current beach rules, campground availability and tower tour schedule before visiting.

The historic town of Lewes (one of Delaware’s most charming small cities — the Zwaanendael Museum, the Lewes History Museum, Canal Street with excellent restaurants, and the ferry terminal for the Cape May-Lewes Ferry), the Cape May-Lewes Ferry (a wonderful 70-minute Delaware Bay crossing to Cape May, NJ), the Delaware Seashore State Park (to the south, with the finest beach strand in Delaware), Rehoboth Beach (the premier Delaware resort beach town, about 5 miles south), and the Assawoman Wildlife Area define the region. Cape Henlopen and Lewes together anchor the natural and cultural experience of the Delaware coast, the finest combination in Delaware.

Visit the cape on the first full-moon night of May (check the lunar calendar) and arrive at the bay beach at dusk for the horseshoe-crab spawning — the sight of thousands of horseshoe crabs (living fossils that have been spawning on these beaches for 350 million years) crawling up the beach in the moonlight, with the shorebirds feeding among them, is one of the great wildlife experiences in North America. Take a ranger-led nighttime crab walk (check Cape Henlopen’s event schedule in advance). Climb the WWII fire-control towers for the panoramic bay and ocean view. Stay in Lewes for dinner and explore the charming historic town.